Church Street

Church Street, Westminster

A socially disadvantaged ward and diverse market street, situated on the west side of Lisson Grove

Church Street: an authentically unglamorous London street market
Church Street market is authen­tically unglam­orous

Church Street was created in the 1790s as part of the devel­opment of Lisson Green, and ran west towards the parish church at Paddington Green. A hay market opened on a three-acre site on the north side of Church Street in 1830, adding veget­ables and general goods a year later. A grand collection of buildings was named Portman Market after Sir William Portman, who had owned much of the manor in the latter half of the 16th century.

Better-off folk came to the market from further afield, including Mary Ann Evans, otherwise known as the writer George Eliot, who shopped every week at the post office and grocers. However, hopes that the market would rival Covent Garden were never realised, despite a recon­struction scheme in 1900. The site was sold in 1906 and became a vehicle maintenance depot. Traders soon set up their stalls on the street instead.

The neigh­bourhood was badly damaged during the Blitz and the old market site was redeveloped as part of the Church Street estate after the war.

More council flats filled the street’s hinterland in the following decades, some contro­ver­sially replacing properties that could have been restored.

From the 1960s, trade in antiques and bric-à-brac flour­ished on Church Street. Alfie’s antique market opened in 1976 in the former Jordan’s department store and is now home to around 70 dealers.

Around the corner on Gateforth Street is the Cockpit – a little theatre with a difference. It’s part of City of Westminster College. The college’s Paddington Green campus is located at the far south-west end of Church Street.

The Church Street ward is ethnically diverse, with a large Muslim minority, many of whom are of Arabic origin. The majority of homes are rented from the council or a social landlord, and 68 per cent of house­holds – a very high proportion – have no car.

After his supposed death at the Reichenbach Falls, Sherlock Holmes first reappears to Dr Watson disguised as a Church Street bookseller in ‘The Adventure of the Empty House’.

Postal districts: NW8 and W2
Population: 11,760 (2011 census, an 81 per cent increase on 2001)
Further reading: E McDonald and D J Smith, Pineapples and Pantomimes: A History of Church Street and Lisson Green, Westminster Libraries, 1992
* The image of Church Street Market on this page is adapted from an original photograph, copyright Oxyman, licensed under this Creative Commons Licence. Any subsequent reuse of the image is freely permitted under the terms of that licence.